Brew Dudes

Homebrewing blog and resource

East Kent Goldings Vs. Fuggles SMaSH Showdown

We are excited to share with you this comparison.

Mike made a SMaSH beer with some noble hops some time ago. When we tasted,  it was hard to give a good description of the flavor because it was so, for lack of a better word, hoppy.

They didn’t have wild flavors, they just tasted like traditional hops.

With that in mind, and to see if Mike really didn’t like a hop variety, I brewed up two SMaSH (Single Malt and Single Hop) beers. One of them had East Kent Golding in them. The other was brewed with Fuggles.

We tasted them side by side and chatted about it.

With that, we are proud to present to this tremendous post.

The East Kent Goldings Vs. Fuggles SMaSH Showdown!

The Showdown Methodology

I brewed a US gallon batch of each SMaSH beer. The one modification to my process was that I mashed up four gallons of wort, instead of my usual two.

Because of this change, I did not brew in a bag. I used my regular mash tun.

With four gallons of wort, I racked two gallons for the East Kent Goldings brew into the small kettle and boiled/chilled/transferred into the fermentor. Then, I did it again for the Fuggles beer.

I use one ounce of hops for one gallon batches and the hop addition timings were as follows:

  • .25 ounce at 60 minutes left to go in the boil
  • .25 ounce at 15 minutes left to go in the boil
  • .25 ounce at flameout
  • .25 ounce dry hop added during the third day of fermentation

I split on packet of US-05 dry yeast and added half in one fermentor and half in the other.

The Results

Based on these beers tasted side by side, the descriptors that I typically have read hold true.

East Kent Goldings Hops: Definitely more fruity, more herbal than the Fuggles. Using this technique, there was an explosion of floral flavors that I have never tasted in any beer that i have brewed using this hop. Even with the neutral yeast, there was an English quality to the beer. I wouldn’t call it juicy but it was fruit forward.

Fuggles Hops: I didn’t get the strong wood character that Mike talked about in the past, but this beer had it. The SMaSH beer had a strong woody, earthy flavor. It tasted like a dead log in the woods. I haven’t tasted that but it did taste a little like bark. Again, I don’t taste this flavor in porters that have Fuggles in them, but it is the leading character in the hop.

Hope you learned something from our showdown. We certainly did.


Cheap and Easy Cider That You Can Make At Home

These Brew Dudes are believers in expanding skill sets and exploring other fermented beverages. If you share that same mindset, we have a method of helping you spread your wings beyond brewing beer at home. This method knocks down a couple of the barriers of entry to the new world beyond beer: effort and monetary cost. Take a look at how you can make cheap and easy cider at home!

Mike’s Cheap and Easy Cider

So you may have this trouble too. You want to brew beer but you can’t find the time to do. Mike listened to a podcast and decided in the time he has available to him lately that he would put his experience and equipment to use on making cider.

The cider we tasted was made from store brand apple juice. It comes in 0.75 US gallon jugs (96 fluid ounces) and it’s made with apple juice concentrate, filtered water, and ascorbic acid.

The key to any juice you use for fermentation is that it does not contain chemical preservatives like potassium sorbate which will inhibit yeast from fermenting the juice.

Mike bought three of these apple juice jugs for less than 10 US dollars. He added the 2.25 gallons of juice to his 3 gallon sized fermentor. Then, he sprinkled 1 packet of Danstar Nottingham Ale Dry Beer Yeast and some yeast nutrient onto the juice and let it ride for a couple of months.

Once it was clear, he bottled it up using his bucket and added some table sugar so that the yeast could naturally carbonate in the bottle. In terms of effort, he probably spent most of his energy bottling the cider.

The cider was super clear and tasty along with being cheap and easy to make.

Why Should You Make Cider At Home

Many in our community brew beer only and we understand that, but we feel the opportunity to make other fermented beverages at home is too great to ignore. When you blend your home brew beer experience with making these other beverages, you’ll learn to appreciate the beer making process more because of how complex it is as compared to cider, mead, or wine making.

Use your skills to make other beverages and gain a greater understanding of a larger world. Plus, if you make other drinks beyond beer, you’ll most likely expand your circle of people who like your output.

Make cider for others if not for yourself and if you don’t want to invest too much, follow this cheap and easy way!

Mike has more of these flavored ciders on the way so be on the look out for them.

Brew on.

2018 Brew Dudes Community Brew Tasting Notes

The 2018 Brew Dudes community brew has progressed nicely since our announcement back in September. Both Mike and I brewed a version of the Brown ale, following the recipe that we posted for the most part with some small changes based on ingredient availability.

The beers were ready for the most part and we tasted them side by side to compare and contrast them. As we have learned in the past, small differences can have big effects on the finished beer.

Watch as we taste these beers and take note of these two examples of the 2018 community brew.

Tasting Notes

Aroma: The guidelines call for a light sweet malt aroma with toffee, nutty, and/or light chocolate notes. My beer had the sweet malt aroma with caramel in the front. Mike’s had strong toast notes with earthy hops mixed in there.

Appearance: The beers should be dark amber to dark reddish brown in color and clear. Our beers were a little hazy but I think we hit the color. Ours were dark amber.

Flavor: Brown ales should have gentle to moderate malt sweetness with light to heavy caramel notes with medium to dry finish. My beer had a nice wallop of caramel. Mike had more toffee and biscuit notes with some caramel flavor in the aftertaste.

Mouthfeel: This type of beer should have medium light to medium a mouthfeel and both our beers had that.

Overall Impression: My brown ale had a big malty punch where Mike’s was crisper and drier on the palate. His toasty flavor was the big note where mine had the caramel focus.

What Did We Learn?

Community brews are time to bring us together but also to show off how small differences can change beers dramatically. As Mike said, these two beers were very easy to distinguish from each other that even a triangle test wouldn’t throw us off.

We’re happy about how they came out and we hope the homebrewers that participated also were pleased with their results.

All the brewers who were looking to swap have been paired up and should be able to ship off their beers in the near future.

The next experiment for us, of course, is to really try to brew the same beer as closely as possible and see if we can replicate each other’s beer.

Until then, BREW ON!

Bringing Back The Porter Beer Style WIth Tips For You

Mike is a keeper of the beer style flame.

He does not want other types of beer to die off under the weight of IPA Mania.

Here we taste a porter that he brewed, chat about it, and discuss tips that you should follow to brew a great one.

Mike’s Porter Recipe

Here’s the recipe for Mike’s Keeping the Flame Alive Porter:

Batch size is 6.5 US Gallons of wort at the end of the boil.

74% Maris Otter Pale Malt
7.4% Medium Crystal Malt (55°L)
7.5% Victory Malt (25°L)
5.6% Black Patent Malt (525°L)
5.6% Brown Malt (70° L)


1 ounce of Challenger (7.6% AA) – 60 minutes to go in the boil
2 ounces of East Kent Goldings (6% AA) – 10 minutes to go in the boil

Wyeast 1968 London ESB Ale Yeast


Original Gravity: 1.055
Final Gravity: 1.016
IBUs: 35
°SRM: 31
ABV: 4.9%

Tasting Notes

Appearance: Black color when you looked down at the pint glass. When held up to the light, you could see ruby highlights and a brownish tinge. Head was slightly off-white.

Aroma: Strong toast aroma. A little biscuit malt note as well.
Flavor: More toasty than roasty, some dark chocolate notes, licorice in the end. Rich

Mouthfeel: Medium body. It wasn’t too heavy.

Overall Impression: This beer reminded me a lot of Mayflower Brewing Company’s Porter which is a wonderful beer if you can get your hands on it. This beer had three of four solid flavor notes that worked well together. I didn’t mind not having the caramel note come through, the biscuit from the Victory malt, the bitter chocolate from the Black malt, and the strong toast of the Brown Malt made it great.

Hot Tip For Brewing a Great Porter

Mike says if you want to brew a great porter, you need to go bold with your specialty malt. You need to choose one or two of the flavor characters that you want to be present in the beer and increase the amounts of the specialty malts in your grain bill that will make those characters shine.

Have fun brewing beer styles – especially ones for the colder months.

Brew ON!

What Is A Homebrew Beer Batch Size?

You’d think with over 33 years of collective homebrewing beer experience, we would know definitively what a batch size is when reviewing a recipe. Sadly, it’s not true. The good thing is that this measurement can mean different things to different people. In this post and video, we discuss what a homebrew beer batch size means to each of us and why it can differ. Hopefully, it will help you to understand what it means to you and your process.

Why Are We Talking About Batch Size?

So in the Community Brew recipe, if you weren’t paying attention, you would miss that the grain bill is measured to produce a wort volume of 6.5 gallons at the end of the boil.

Since I didn’t pay close attention to that important factor, I didn’t adjust the recipe for my typical procedure of producing enough wort that gets me 5 gallons in the fermentor at the end of the brew session.

To be clear: how I brewed the community brew brown ale vs. what the recipe called for was off by a gallon. At the end of the boil, I had 5.5 gallons of wort which resulted in 5 gallons in the fermentor. I should have had 6.5 gallons instead.

In my mind, batch size is all about what I have in the fermentor. I always create recipes for what is coming out of my kettle and into my carboy.

Mike thinks of batch size as the amount of beer that will be available for packaging. His recipes are set for having more wort at the end of the boil because there is a lot of loss between the end of his boil and when he is ready to get the beer into the keg.

He still brews with 5 gallons in mind but it’s 5 gallons of beer that goes in the keg or bottles.

What To Keep In Mind In Terms of Batch Size

The big takeaway is that no one is wrong when it comes to their idea of batch size. Reading the comments on YouTube, it seems like this topic has many answers. The thing to keep in mind when reviewing recipes is to note the meaning of batch size. This meaning is usually conveyed via the volumes at the beginning and end of the boils.

Look for that piece of information in homebrew beer recipe. If not, your results may vary wildly or in my case, you will brew a beer with a starting gravity 11 points higher than what the recipe was calculated for.

This is not the first time we have discussed recipe translations before. Check out the posts related to grain weights as percentages of total and measuring hops using alpha acid percentages.


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