Brew Dudes

Homebrewing Blog and Resource

The hobby of homebrewing beer

Cream Ale Style Profile

How do you write a style profile about a beer that traditionally did not have a strict rule set of how it should be made?  I don’t know, but I am going to try to pull something together.

Cream ale is a style that is indigenous to America.  They were made by ale breweries to compete with the golden lagers that were starting to become pretty popular towards the end of the 19th century.  Because of Prohibition, the full knowledge of ingredients and techniques that were used was lost.  What we do know is that they are ale to be made more like German lagers than British ales.  This concept probably led to the ale breweries using lager yeasts and trying their best to storing their brews at cold temperatures for long periods of time.

BYO magazine put it best when they put together these guidelines:

  • It’s an American beer style, so all ingredients should be American.
  • The brew should be fermented at regular ale (warm) temperatures but cool to cold conditioned for a good length of time (2 to 4 months) to mimic a lagering stage.
  • The brew’s uniqueness should be derived from it having both ale and lager qualities.
  • It should be effervescent and dry.

I like the idea of making a true American brew.   I also feel like homebrewing brings us back to a time where people mostly made things for themseleves.  Beer styles seem to be based on what people had around them.  If you look at my cream ale recipe, I use flaked maize.  You can’t get a more American grain than that, right?   Heck, if I were living in those times maybe I would be using some corn in my brew.

I took up the challenge of brewing a cream ale because I wanted to try to brew something light for summer.   Homebrewers tend to brew darker beers, and I have no problem with that.  I wanted to see if I could brew a lighter beer where mistakes would be easier to detect.  Certainly wasn’t perfect, but was very drinkable and I will keep working at it until it’s close to flawless.

Scottish 60/- Update

I tasted the 60/- the other night. It’s fully carbed in the keg. Unfortunately, I think it’s pretty thin and lifeless. I didn’t achieve a good enough carmalization with the drawn off portion. I’ll still submit it to the NE regional comp, just to see if my assessment jives with other judges.

Next time I brew it I think I will substitute some of the roasted barely with chocolate malt and black patent and some crystal 80L. I think that will hedge my bet of getting some more dynamic flavors. I’ll also not rush the caramelization step. I know I rushed it this time.

On the last run I drew off 1 gallon of wort and reduced it to half a gallon. I know now that I will likely need to reduce it to a 1/3rd or even a 1/4 gallon to get good caramelization. I’ll have to extend the total boil time to 120 minutes too I think.

Just some thoughts to improve the brew for next time.

Comment if you have had similar experiences or have advice to lend.

Brew on!

Brewing Notes – Cream Ale

I followed a partial mash procedure for this recipe. The American 2 row malt was placed in a gallon size ziploc bag and Mike and I crushed it using a rolling pin. Since there was 4 pounds of the stuff, we had to crush it in shifts. We placed the 2 row in 2 gallon cylindrical beverage cooler along with the caramel malt (I crushed that too) and the flaked maize (yeah, corn). 5.5 quarts of 160 degree water was poured into the cooler to reach the mashing temperature of 149 degrees. The grains sat in the cooler for an hour. After an hour was up, I took the cover off the cooler. Mike has a sweet strainer which I placed over the top of my kettle. I poured all the contents of the cooler into the strainer; the liquid past through to the kettle and grains stayed in the strainer.

Nice.

While the mash was resting, I heated 2 gallons of water in another pot to 170 degrees. I poured this water over the grains in the strainer slowly. Mike told me this step was called ‘rinsing the grains’. I filled the kettle with water to get it to the 5 gallon mark.

The boil lasted for 60 minutes. I added the hops at the beginning of the boil and with 15 minutes to go. We used the wort chiller to cool the wort to 70 degrees and I added the smack pack of yeast.

Primary fermentation lasted for 1 week and the beer was cold conditioned in Mike’s fridge for 2 months.

O.G: 1.040
F.G: 1.009

The beer was light in color, very clean tasting but more flavorful compared to say a Bud Light. It wasn’t as clear as I wanted it to be, so next time I will boil it for 90 minutes. Also, I will probably use only Cluster hops in the future.

Check out the Cream Ale Style Profile.

Belgian Tripel Update #3

Success!!!
I had posted before that my terminal gravity was disappointingly high after 10 days in primary, seemingly stuck at 1030.  I racked the beer over from bucket to glass carboy, moved it from the 68F fridge to my 74F basement.  Sure enough it started to ferment again, I even got a mini-krausen.

Well I am very happy to report that the gravity tonight was 1013!!!  That equates to an estimated ~10%ABV. Its tastes a little dry, but it definitely has a mild earthy black pepper tone as it should as a Tripel.  The color is surprisingly a little darker, but we’ll have to wait to see how it pours with carbonation in another week.

This beer is definitely ready for the N.E. regional homebrew competition.

All Grain to Extract Conversion

I know some people have asked me about extract versions of my all-grain recipes.  In the future, I will do my best to remember to post an extract version of the recipes I post.  In the meantime, I wanted to put up a post about converting recipes and how I convert any all-grain recipe to extract.  That way readers can double check my math if they wish (and call me out on it!) or you can use my method to convert any recipe you see on the web yourself.

First off some personal philosphy:

While not an original thought, I agree with many others on this simple premise: Formulate all your extract recipes using only Light Malt Extract.  Once you have brewed enough extract beers from kits and you start to formulate your own recipes, using only light extracts makes good beer sense.  Primarily, it will standardize the base malt flavor profiles in your beers, which will lead to predictable results each time you brew.  Secondly, it gives you a lot more control over the flavors you get because you are controlling all the specialty malts and grains yourself.  Lastly, it will make it a hell of a lot easier to convert that recipe to all-grain should you go that direction some day.  It’s a lot easier to convert 10lbs of DME to ~16lbs of pale malt grain than it is to convert 10lbs of dark DME to who knows how many pounds of pale malt, crystal malt, chocolate and black patent malt; for example.  Dark dry malt extract (DME) is made with a combination of the malts I mentioned above, but it’s according to some maltser’s recipe.

OK…on to the calculations. (I have two methods for doing this the first is more “accurate”, the second is “good enough” for the first pass.)

METHOD #1

First off, keep all the specialty malts the same in any recipe you wish to convert to extract.  It will be a good starting point for the most part.

Next, you need two pieces of critical information the total pounds of base malt (usually Pale malt, Marris Otter, Munich Malt, Pilsner Malt, etc. etc.) and the extract efficiency.  Most of the time I assume 70-75% efficiency when formulating recipes.  This number should be given by most completed recipes but it may not be available for a recipe that hasn’t been brewed yet.  Multiply the pounds of base malt by 37PPG (point per pound per gallon, this is the typical PPG for base grain).  That equals the total points of extract assume 100% conversion and recovery.  You need to convert that total points to actual points but multiplying that last number by the percent efficiency (as a decimal).

Example:  10lbs base malt * 37PPG is 370 total points.  The actual points is going to be 259 (370*0.70=259).

In 5 gallons, that would yield an expected OG of 1052 (259/5gallons= 51.8)

So what you need is 259 points of extract from DME or LME (Liquid Malt Extract).  For my calcs, I use an assumed 44PPG for DME and 37PPG for LME.  Just divide the total points needed by the points per pound of DME or LME.
259 points is ~5.8lbs of DME (259/44PPG)
or 259 points is 7lbs of LME (259/37PPG)

Use that much calculated extract, and steep the same amounts of specialty grains as you would with a normal extract kit.

METHOD#2

Look for the anticipate OG of the recipe you wish to convert (don’t even look at how much base malt there is).  Multiply the OG points by the batch size to get the total points of extract. For example, 5 gallons of 1.050 beer would contain/need 250 points worth of extract (5 gallons*50 [from 1050 OG]=250)

Simply divide that number by the PPG of DME or LME as I did at the end of method #1.

250/44=5.6lbs DME
250/37=6.7lbs LME

Again, use that amount of extract and steep the specialty grains as you would a normal extract kit.

This method is less accurate but easier to deal with.  I often use this method if I want to just get a quick idea how much extract to buy or I want to quickly convert a recipe for someone.  It is the best way to easily get a total amount of extract (DME or LME) without worrying about efficiency in the all grain brewers mash.  The only draw back to this method is that you will end up with a slightly higher OG because this method ignores the contribution of gravity points to the OG.  But that is relatively small contribution, and if you plan to rebrew a recipe to tweak it (I recommend that approach) then you can change the extract values then.

I hope that helps with converting recipes.  If there are questions or challenges to my method of converting, post them as comments and I will address them or attempt to clarify the methods as needed. (Hopefully this post won’t turn into an excuse to forget to post the extract version of each recipe I put together in the future)

Page 315 of 322

Powered by WordPress & Theme by Anders Norén